Whether you’re new to gardening or just looking for a smarter setup, this step-by-step DIY project will help you build a raised garden box that will last for years—and looks good too!

Gardening is one of my favorite activities—it’s truly good for my soul.

Every spring, I look forward to digging in the dirt and enjoying the rewards of a backyard harvest all summer long.

After being diagnosed with Graves’ disease several years ago (now thankfully in remission, thanks in part to cleaner eating), growing my own organic produce has become even more important to me.

I’ve had three redwood raised garden beds for over 10 years, but one began showing signs of wear—and last spring, during our bathroom remodel, it took a hit from falling construction debris.

That was the final push I needed to build a new, more durable raised garden box.

This time, I used pressure-treated lumber and corrugated metal to create a design that not only looks beautiful but is built to last.

The metal lines the inside, protecting the wood on the outside from rot.

Steph wasn’t able to help with this one, but my husband jumped in and really enjoyed working on this project!

Scroll down to see our step-by-step guide and tips for building a raised garden box that will hold up for years to come.

Sunnyside home is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, this blog earns from qualifying purchases with no additional cost to you. Click here to read our  full disclosure policy.

Is It Cheaper to Build a Raised Garden Box or Buy One?

That was the exact question I asked myself before starting this project—because let’s be honest, there’s no point in building something if it ends up costing more than just buying it.

I started pricing out metal raised garden beds and quickly realized that to get the size I needed, I’d have to buy two separate boxes, which would cost me around $280.

Instead, I gathered all the supplies to build my own 4×8 raised garden box and only spent $160—a savings of about $120!

Plus, most pre-made garden boxes still require assembly, so either way, you’re putting in the effort.

This DIY project took just two hours with the help of my husband and went together surprisingly fast.

If you’re using recycled materials, like we did with our original redwood boxes that lasted 10 years, your cost could be even lower.

This time, I opted for a taller design—about 26 inches high—so there’s less bending while gardening, and I absolutely love the upgrade.

Supplies and Tools You’ll Need

Below is the complete list of supplies and tools we used to build one 4×8 raised garden box.

Materials:

Tools:

Are you enjoying this project? Please Pin It, save it for later and share it with a friend.

Sharing is caring!

Step 1: Cutting the Wood

When building your raised garden box, start by measuring and cutting your wood carefully to ensure a precise fit.

Even though our boards were labeled as 8 feet long, we found slight variations—some measured 8 ¼” and one was even 8 ⅜”.

Corrugated metal and cut lumber for building an elevated garden bed.

To keep things consistent, it’s best to measure and mark each board individually before cutting, rather than relying on the printed length.

For this project, you’ll need:

  • 4 – 8′ long 2×4 boards
  • 4 – 45″ 2×4 boards for the short ends
  • 14 – 20″ 2×4 pieces for the vertical supports

Taking the time to cut each piece accurately will make your assembly smoother and help your finished box look clean and professional.

Pro tip: Sort and stack your cut pieces according to size to make assembly easier.

Step 2: Drilling Pocket Holes

Before assembling your raised garden box, you’ll need to prepare your boards with pocket holes for strong, hidden joints.

Pocket hole jig and bit is set for making holes in 1 1/2" wood.

Start by adjusting your pocket hole jig to accommodate 1½” thick wood, and set the depth collar on your drill bit to match the same 1½” setting.

Pocket holes are made into the ends of the corner garden box boards using a jig and drill.

Using the jig, drill two pocket holes into each end of the 45″ boards, spacing them about 1″ in from each edge.

Garden box corner, side support and end boards with pocket holes.

Do the same for all 14 of the 20″ boards—two pocket holes on each end, also about 1″ from the sides.

Raised Garden Box corner boards with pocket holes.

Additionally, choose four of the 20″ boards to drill two extra pocket holes spaced roughly 6–8″ apart along one of the long edges.

These additional holes will be used to secure short ends to the long sides of the garden box.

If you’ve been following along for a while, you know we love building with our Kreg pocket hole jig.

It makes assembling woodworking projects a breeze while creating strong, long-lasting joints.

We’ve used it on countless builds, including some of our favorite projects like:

Welcome to Our Site

If you’re new here, welcome! We’re so glad you’re here.

Let us introduce ourselves, we’re Michelle and Steph, a mom and daughter team who love to DIY and decorate our homes.

Not only are we passionate about making our homes warm, comfortable and unique, but it’s our mission to help you create that same feeling in your own home.

You’ll find ideas for repurposing, creating, decorating and making your home truly yours, while always mindful of a tight budget.

Undoubtedly we love finding ways to make your home look high-end on a small budget.

Plus you’ll also find a recipe or two as we share our family favorites with you.

We’d love it if you’d join our community of doers so you won’t miss any inspiration for your home.

We love new friends.

Step 3: Assembling the Raised Garden Box Frame

Now it’s time to assemble the frame of your raised garden box, begin with the long sides.

Two large clamps hold the boards in place for the side of the garden box so pocket screws can be inserted.

Lay two 8-foot 2×4 boards parallel to each other on a flat surface, spaced 20 inches apart.

First place a corner support board at each end.

Then evenly space and position two more 20″ boards between the 8′ boards.

A pocket hole screw is inserted to connect the corner board to the top side support board for the raised garden bed.

Secure each 20″ board to the top and bottom 2x4s using two pocket hole screws at each joint.

Once the first long side is assembled, repeat the same process for the second long side.

Next, repeat the same process to assemble the short ends of the garden box using the 45″ boards.

End piece of the garden box clamped together in order to secure with screws.

Lay two 45″ boards parallel on a flat surface, spaced 20″ apart.

This time, you’ll only need one 20″ support board, which will be placed in the center of the frame.

At each end, position one of the 20″ boards that has the extra pocket holes along the long edge—these should be oriented so that the ends with pocket holes will face outward, allowing the screws to connect from the inside of the frame to the outside.

Secure it to the top and bottom boards with two pocket hole screws at each end.

This center support helps add stability to the garden box frame.

Pro tip: To keep everything aligned and square place a clamp on each end of the 8′ boards and on the 45″ boards when inserting the pocket hole screws.

Step 4: Securing the Metal Panels

Once each of your 4 frame sides are assembled, it’s time to cut and attach the corrugated metal panels for the inside of your garden box.

Corrugated metal is trimmed to size with tin snips.

Start by cutting the metal panels to fit the two long sides of the frame, allowing 1 1/2″ of the wood to show on each side of the frame.

This will allow corners to join together seamlessly.

Be sure to wear gloves when handling and cutting the metal—it’s very sharp!

My husband helped with this part since my arthritic hands make gripping tin snips difficult.

He forgot to wear gloves and ended up with a nasty cut—so learn from our mistake, safety first!

After cutting the long panels, cut the shorter end pieces, making sure they also sit 1½” in from the ends of the frame to allow for final assembly.

Corrugated metal sheet is attached to the raised garden box frame with roofing screws.

With all pieces cut, center the long metal panels inside the long side frames and secure them using self-tapping roofing screws, three per side and center support boards.

Once the frame is fully assembled, you’ll attach the shorter metal panels in the same way.

By lining the inside of the garden box with metal, you help protect the wood from constant contact with soil and moisture, which extends the life of your raised garden box significantly.

Let’s stay connected! Follow us on social media!

Step 5: Securing the Garden Box Together

Now it’s time to secure your raised garden box together.

Start by moving each of the four completed sides into the final location where your garden box will sit.

Take a moment to check that the ground is level beneath each side—this will ensure your box sits evenly and looks professional.

A large clamp is placed at the end of the garden box to hold it in place before securing the sides with screws.
Large clamps on each end of the garden box hold it in position before securing the sides with screws.

Position the short end frames in between the two long sides and hold everything in place with large clamps.

If you don’t have clamps long enough bring in a couple of extra hands to hold the corners together while you insert the screws.

Raised garden bed is secured at the corners with pocket hole screws.

Then, drive screws into each of the pocket holes on the end boards—six screws per corner.

Corrugated metal is secured to the raised garden box frame with roofing screws.

Once all the corners are secure, grab your pre-cut corrugated metal panels for the short ends.

Center each one inside the frame and fasten it with the self-tapping roofing screws: three in each corner board and three in the center support.

Repeat for the opposite end.

Step 6: Adding a Cap to the Garden Box

Adding a cap board to the top of your raised garden box is the perfect finishing touch.

Not only does it give the box a clean, polished look, but it also serves a practical purpose by covering the top edge of the corrugated metal—eliminating any exposed sharp edges for a safer gardening experience.

Begin by measuring and cutting two 2×4 boards with 45° mitered corners to fit the long sides of the box.

Align each cap board so the outer edge lines up with the outer edge of the garden box, then secure it to the frame using 3″ exterior wood screws.

Wood screws secure the cap board to the raised garden box.

Repeat the process for the short ends, measuring and cutting the 2x4s with 45° angles to fit snugly between the long sides.

Once installed, the cap board not only enhances the durability of your raised garden bed but also adds a comfortable ledge that’s perfect for resting tools—or even taking a break while you work.

Step 7: Tips for Filling Your Raised Garden Box

When it comes to filling your raised garden box, it’s not necessary—or cost-effective—to fill the entire thing with soil.

That’s a lot of dirt!

Instead, we used a layered method inspired by hugelkultur, which improves drainage, retains moisture, and saves money.

This method lets the wood break down over time, releasing nutrients and holding in moisture, which helps create a healthy, thriving soil without needing as many store-bought gardening products.

Decaying wood is placed in the bottom of the raised garden box.
Yard waste is placed in the bottom the raised garden box before the soil is added.

We started by placing pieces of our old disassembled redwood garden box in the bottom of the new bed.

Then we added logs, branches, sticks, and leaves from our yard, filling the box about two-thirds full with this natural material.

This not only helps reduce the amount of soil needed but also breaks down over time to enrich the soil.

On top of that, we added about 12 inches of our garden box soil mix, rich in compost and nutrients.

This method creates excellent drainage and moisture retention while also being eco-friendly and budget-wise.

FAQs

What do you put on the bottom of a raised garden bed?

When filling the bottom of a raised garden bed, I like to start with a layer of natural materials like old wood, logs, branches, sticks, and leaves. This not only helps reduce the amount of soil you need, but it also creates great drainage and improves moisture retention. Plus, as the wood breaks down, it adds valuable nutrients to the soil, giving your plants a healthy start! You don’t have to fill the whole bed with soil—this method is both cost-effective and eco-friendly.

How deep should a raised garden bed be for vegetables?

For vegetables, I recommend a raised garden bed that’s at least 12 inches deep, but 18 to 24 inches is even better if you can swing it. The extra depth gives plant roots more room to grow and access nutrients, which is especially important for bigger veggies like tomatoes. It also helps with moisture retention and drainage, making it easier to maintain healthy plants. So, the deeper, the better—but 12 inches is a great place to start!

What is the easiest thing to grow in a raised bed?

If you’re looking for something easy to grow in a raised bed, I’d say start with herbs like basil, parsley or rosemary—they’re low-maintenance and thrive in raised beds. Lettuce and spinach are also super easy to grow and don’t require much fuss. If you want to add some color, carrots and radishes are a great choice too! They grow fast and don’t need a ton of attention. Overall, anything that doesn’t require deep roots or too much care is a good bet for a raised bed.

How deep does a raised bed need to be for tomatoes?

For tomatoes, I’d recommend a raised bed that’s at least 18 to 24 inches deep. Tomatoes have deep roots, so the extra depth gives them plenty of room to spread out and access the nutrients and moisture they need to thrive. The deeper the bed, the better it helps with root growth, drainage, and keeping the soil loose and healthy for those juicy, delicious tomatoes!

How many bags of soil do I need for a 4×8 raised bed?

To fill a 4×8 raised bed, you’ll need about 1.5 cubic yards of soil, which is roughly 36 to 40 standard 1-cubic-foot bags. However, a more economical option would be to buy the soil in larger 1 cubic yard bag, or if you have a truck or trailer, you can get garden box mix in bulk from your local nursery. That’s how we purchased our soil, and it was a lot more cost-effective than buying bags. It also saved us time and effort, especially when filling up a large bed like this! Keep in mind that if you’re layering with natural materials like branches or leaves at the bottom, you won’t need as much soil.

Shop Garden Box Supplies

Final Thoughts

I’m so happy with how this raised garden box turned out—it’s sturdy, beautiful, and I know it’ll last for years.

DIY raised garden box made with pressure treated lumber and corrugated metal.

It came together so quickly too! In just about 2 hours, my husband and I knocked it out as a team, and honestly, it was fun working side by side on a project like this.

DIY raised garden box made with pressure treated lumber and corrugated metal.

If you’ve been thinking about building your own raised garden box, I say go for it!

DIY raised garden box made with pressure treated lumber and corrugated metal.

You can totally do this, and I’d love to hear how yours turns out.

Drop any questions you have in the comments or share your garden box with me—I always love seeing what you create!

More Ideas for Your Garden and Outdoor Living

We hope you found some inspiration for your home and garden today.

Please share your tips and ideas with us.

We love hearing from you!

If you’re new here, WELCOME! We love having new readers and friends!

You can learn more about us here.

Let’s stay connected! Join our DIY community of doers and you won’t miss the weekly updates and more inspiration for you always on a budget.

Sharing is caring!

Pinterest image: DIY Raised Garden Box made with pressure treated lumber and corrugated metal.

Thanks for stopping by Sunnyside Home. Empowering you to create a home you love!

Michelle Dickson

Retailers We Love

Be sure to follow us on Pinterest for even more home decor and DIY ideas.

To see what we are working on before it’s on our blog, follow us on Instagram.

You will also find our video tutorials on our YouTube channel.

What New . . .

I have always had a passion for transforming spaces and creating organized, functional homes. Even as a child, I loved rearranging furniture and decorating my childhood home. In fact my dad would comment he was afraid to come home from work and sit, for fear the furniture would be rearranged. I enjoy the challenge of turning ordinary items into extraordinary pieces, whether it’s a piece of furniture or an entire room. My creativity and attention to detail drive me to find unique ways to breathe new life into any space.

As a wife (to a supportive and patient husband, Steve), mother of three, and grandmother of five, I balance my love for home improvement with family life. I enjoy spending time outdoors, hiking, and exploring nature. I also frequent yard sales, thrift stores, and vintage markets, always on the lookout for my next project.

Similar Posts

2 Comments

  1. That’s so pretty! And a really nice height. I don’t garden but I’ll share with one of my sisters who does. She built some garden beds from old hurricane corrugated shutters! It’s nice that you and your husband worked on this together.

    Reply

    1. Thanks Cyndi! It was fun so spend the afternoon with my husband building this! Hey look out for a new video Sunday and we do have the closet makeover on our YT content calendar, but we are focusing on more season videos right now. Thanks for stopping by and have a beautiful day.

      Reply

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *